San Francisco Chronicle

Sonoma Coast Chardonnays

May 2010

2008 DUNSTAN Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay: This new label from Durell owner Ellie Phipps Price harnesses a prime block (Ranch House) of a powerhouse Chardonnay site. A paraffin aroma, plus lots of toffeed and toasted flavors, reveal the oak influence. But there are dense layers of flavor beyond: minerally citrus and peach skin, and a savory twinge. Think brined green olive. The finish is fresh and bracing. A powerful, ripe style.

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